Cphfw: Meet the Designers Bringing Scandi-Chic to the Next Level During the Spring/summer 2024 Season of Copenhagen Fashion Week

It’s time to put your Qantas points to good use because fashion—and in turn, you—are heading back to Europe.

The ‘big four’ fashion weeks—New York, London, Milan and Paris—will always be a perennial source of sartorial inspiration, supermodel spotting and indisputably the place to be in February and September.

However, a little further north from these cultural capitals, Denmark’s established and emerging talents are proving why all eyes should be on Copenhagen.

From August 7-11, the city’s picturesque harbor, quaint canals and cobblestone streets will be taken over by the Scandi style set for the bi-annual Copenhagen Fashion Week; the precursor to the lauded fashion month and home to some of the most inventive talents in Europe.

Unlike London’s signature grit, New York’s edgy ambition, Milan’s tradition and Paris’ preeminent point-of-difference, Copenhagen is a bourgeoning home of luxury fashion, awash with saturated hues and boundless optimism for the contemporary woman.

For Spring/Summer 2024, a considered but impactful lineup of designers are ushering to the runways to present their interpretation of ‘Copencore’: an enviable aesthetic inextricably linked to the city’s sustainable roots and penchant for spontaneity.

This season, GRAZIA’s senior fashion features writer, Ava Gilchrist, will be reporting from the runways at Copenhagen Fashion Week, dispatching directly from Denmark the latest happenings in the highly coveted street style set, backstage beauty notes and speaking to designers themselves about what ‘Copencore’ truly means.

But before we get to all that—including the behind-the-scenes looks at Copenhagen’s most fashionable haunts (like the must-stay Villa Copenhagen), and delivering you the latest innovation in prestigious Danish brands like Pandora—we bring you GRAZIA’s guide to the designers worth acquainting yourself with ahead of Copenhagen Fashion Week SS24.

Ganni

It could be said there would be no Copenhagen fashion without the internationally lauded label Ganni and its army of maximalist-fashion adherents.

The sustainably-minded brand saturated in an effervescent sensibility will no doubt be looking to top their viral SS23 collection ‘Joy Ride’, which saw the brand unveil their denim collection with Levi and sit Ganni-girl Emma Chamberlain in the front row.

Given that this is only their third IRL runway show since the pandemic, we have every reason to believe creative director Ditte Reffstrup will be upping the ante in her print and Peter Pan collar-laded atelier.

Saks Potts

Saks Potts is Copenhagen’s answer to Proenza Schouler in the way that the creative duo Barbara Potts and Cathrine Saks have forged a design partnership that has made them one of the most lust-worthy names in fashion.

For those who aren’t familiar, we only need to refer you to that iconic faux fur-trimmed trench coat sported by Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner as proof of their A-list clientele. While the brand has shifted its focus to recontextualizing the rosette’s place in fashion, making sequin party wear part of a quotidian uniform and redefining the capabilities of striped cotton, the sentiment remains the same.

At Saks Potts, sensual dressing isn’t just reserved for evening wear or special occasion. Their designs are a little flirtatious, never afraid to get naughty and always look good on a first date.

Better still, the label’s collections always comprise of staple pieces that work just as effectively in the boardroom as they do at a cocktail bar or on the dance floor. The only accessory needed is a dirty martini. A cocktail our senior digital fashion writer will no doubt have in hand to watch this highly-anticipated presentation from the ground in Copenhagen.

Helmstedt

If Alice had indulged in some magic mushrooms while in Wonderland, she may have found herself in the front room at Helmstedt.

The LVMH Prize finalist will make its highly-sought after return to Copenhagen Fashion Week after the brand’s inventive debut during the SS/23 season that felt like an LSD-fuelled fever dream in the best way possible.

If you’re looking for something you can wear off-the-rack that can serve as a worthwhile addition to your curated capsule wardrobe, then Helmeted isn’t for you. But, if you’re looking to dip your toe in the realm of psychedelic wearable art, complete with abstract prints and campy nature-inspired designs, then this inventive brand may very well become your new favorite.

OpéraSport

Opera-Sport. — Opera Sport SS23. Image via Instagram.com/OperaSport

Desperate for a taste of Parisian fashion during fashion week? Bourgeoning brand OpéraSport may just satisfy your appetite.

Combining French romanticism with Scandinavian sensibilities, the brand is a must-have for anyone who worships the supermodel off-duty aesthetic. Mixing codes of femininity with masculinity, sportswear with evening wear, the Paris and Copenhagen-based label is a smorgasbord of European delight.

Desperate for a taste of Parisian fashion during fashion week? Bourgeoning brand OpéraSport may just satisfy your appetite. Combining French romanticism with Scandinavian sensibilities, the brand is a must-have for anyone who worships the supermodel off-duty aesthetic.

Mixing codes of femininity with masculinity, sportswear with evening wear, the Paris and Copenhagen-based label is a smorgasbord of European delight.

Rotate

Emerging from Denmark’s oldest fashion house, Birger Christiansen, Rotate is the spirited uniform for the revellers amongst us who seek more glamour and luxury from their occasionwear.

Underpinned with nostalgic energy, co-designers Thora Valdimars and Jeanette Friis Madsen have mastered the art of recontextualizing raucous party pieces once adored by ‘It’ girls at discotheques like The Limelight in New York and Lightbox in London.

This brand’s superlative instinct is making pieces designed to go dancing in, a fitting quality considering their SS/22 show ended with red PVC-laden models boogying under a roaming disco ball.

Gestuz

Leaning into the ease and playfulness that Copenhagen style is synonymous with, Gestuz redefines wardrobe essentials with a rock’n’roll edge. Unpredictably finds its way woven into the fabric of the brand, with Gestuz’s pieces elevating staple pieces with subtle enhancements. Each unconventional twist on a classic forging a new wave of timeless must-haves.

Paolina Russo

The vanguard of Copenhagen Fashion Week is the conceptual knitwear brand, Paolina Russo. Founded in London in 2021, the LVMH 2023 Prize finalist fuses artisanal heritage with folklore sentiments emerging from contrasting upbringings in Canada and Paris from the brand’s co-designers respectively. The result is an innovative blend of future heirlooms that subvert the idea of a familial ‘relic’ while staying true to an athletic-inspired discipline.

Cecilie Bahnsen

Puff sleeves, voluminous tiered skirts, gathered silhouettes and billows of fabric are all traits synonyms with Scandinavian style, yet no one has perfected these staples more than Cecilie Bahnsen. Despite showing in Paris for the past few seasons, the brand will activate early in the week with a whimsical surprise presentation that celebrates its Copenhagen roots and honors the label’s community of creatives.

In between the sea of demi-couture details lining the cloudy-like front row, keep an eye out for pairs of Cecilie Bansen’s sold-out ASICS GT-2160 as the shoes du jour this season.